Northumbria Coast Line

Stretching from the Scottish Border south to Tyne and Wear, the Northumberland coastline is in places extremely beautiful - and if you like beaches and the weather is right, you will be very happy here. Beginning in the north, the River Tweed marks the national frontier for much of its length, and the city of Berwick-upon-Tweed, like Carlisle, its counterpart on the west coast, has a very special atmosphere reflecting its history of having moved many times back and forth from Scottish and English hands.

The Elizabethan town walls are worth seeing, as is the view of the Tweed estuary from the railway bridge over the river - the train is a very good way to arrive here.

Moving south about 15 kilometres down the A1 trunk road, you will arrive at the turn-off for Holy Island. Lindisfarne, as it is also known, is an essential part of the Northumberland itinerary - but check the tide tables before you plan to go there (local Tourist Information Centres will have details of safe crossing times. And take these seriously - the tide comes in fast, you can't beat it across the causeway. Apparently, around 40 cars, which don't like salt water very much, were lost in 1999 by tourists who thought they knew better than the North Sea.

Lindisfarne was the first Northumbrian Christian community, established in 635 AD, home of St. Cuthbert and where the amazing illuminated Lindisfarne Gospels were produced. It is a beautiful spot - on a clear day the views back across the Cheviot Hills on the mainland are stunning. The ruined priory is fascinating, and there is even a castle to add to all the other things you can see on the island. Lindisfarne is also an important bird sanctuary.

Continuing southward, follow the signs for the scenic coastal route (yes, you really need a car for this, although in summer cycling can also be rewarding). The road will lead you around Budle bay, another good place to see seabirds, to Bamburgh, the medieval capital of Northumbria. Bamburgh Castle is huge, and dominates the coastline for many kilometres around. This village is also famous for being the home of Northumbrian heroine Grace Darling, the almost legendary Victorian lighthouse keeper's daughter. You can see her grave in the churchyard, and there is also a small museum dedicated to her memory. In 1838, this doughty lady helped her father rescue survivors from a wrecked ship in the most appalling weather conditions.

Just a few kilometres south again lies the fishing village of Seahouses - a bit touristy in appearance, but full of superb fish and chips/seafood restaurants where you can eat your heart out for very reasonable cost. And a little further down the coast, on Embleton Bay, is the ruined Dunstanburgh Castle, close to another small fishing village called Craster - the kippers produced here are second only to those of the Isle of Man in their reputation.

It's worth heading a little inland from here to see the town of Alnwick, which has another major castle, the home of the Dukes of Northumberland. In the town itself, which is graced by some gorgeous medieval gatehouses, are two unusual things to see: at the Olde Cross pub you can see a collection of dirty old bottles in the window. These are untouched for two centuries: no-one dares risk the curse of an 18th century landlord who died suddenly from a heart attack. Elsewhere in the town the White Swan Hotel's function room is furnished with the fittings from the ìSS Olympicî, sister ship of the ill-fated ìTitanicî.

Back to the coast again along the River Aln: the small port of Alnmouth is a pretty little town, as is Amble a few kilometres to the south.